Citadel Paint Types Explained: Base, Layer, Shade, Contrast, Dry, Technical & Air

Saga Concepts
Citadel Paint Types Explained
Sep 30, 202637min Read
Saga Concepts

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Every great army starts with a great pot of paint… and a slightly over-caffeinated painter.

Painting Basics · Citadel Paints

Citadel Paint Types Explained: Base, Layer, Shade, Contrast, Dry, Technical & Air

 

Seven paint types, one friendly guide. Learn what each one does and when to reach for it.

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Citadel Wraithbone Base paint pot

A pot of Wraithbone Base paint, a friendly, versatile starter colour.

If you have ever stood in front of a wall of little paint pots and wondered why there are so many types, you are in very good company. Base, Layer, Shade, Dry, Contrast, Technical, Air… it sounds like a secret language. The good news is that it really is simple once you know what job each type does, and every one of them makes painting your miniatures easier and more fun.

Think of each type as a different tool in a toolbox. You would not hammer a nail with a screwdriver, and you would not shade a model with a thick coat of Base paint. Let us walk through the toolbox together, one tool at a time.

A quick note on the name

Quick heads-up: Games Workshop is rebranding Citadel Colour as Warhammer Colour. It is the same paints with new branding, so you may see either name on pots while the changeover happens. We explain it in our Citadel Colour to Warhammer Colour post.

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The seven paint types, in plain English

Base paints: your solid foundation

Base paints are the workhorses. They are rich in pigment, so they cover well and give you a strong, even colour to build on. When you want a big area of armour, cloth or skin to look properly solid, this is where you start. Two thin coats usually beat one thick coat.

Layer paints: the brightening step

Layer paints are a little thinner and flow smoothly off the brush. You apply them on top of a Base colour to lift it, tidy up edges and add highlights. Pick a Layer that is a shade lighter than your Base and run it along the raised edges of the model, and suddenly the colours start to pop.

Shade paints: instant depth

Shades (many hobbyists call them washes) are very runny paints that flow into the gaps and creases of your model and pool there, leaving the raised parts cleaner. The result is natural-looking shadow in a single step. A dark Shade like Nuln Oil is a favourite for metal and black, while warmer ones suit skin and leather.

Contrast paints: the speed-painting shortcut

Contrast paints are a clever all-in-one. Applied over a light undercoat, they settle into the recesses and stay lighter on the high points, so a single coat does the job of a Base and a Shade together. They are fantastic for getting a whole army to a good-looking tabletop standard quickly. We have a whole beginner guide to them, How to Paint with Citadel Contrast Paints.

Dry paints: fast highlights with a dry brush

Dry paints are thick and chunky on purpose. You wipe most of the paint off the brush, then lightly skim it across the model so it only catches the raised edges and textures. It is brilliant for fur, rocky bases, chainmail and worn metal, and it is very forgiving for new painters.

Technical paints: the special-effects kit

Technical paints add personality: rust and corrosion, grime, blood, glowing effects, textured ground and more. They also include the mediums, such as Contrast Medium, that you mix with other paints to thin them. You do not need them on day one, but they are what turns a nicely painted model into a story-filled one.

Air paints: made for the airbrush

Air paints come ready to go through an airbrush, so there is no fiddly thinning to figure out. If you ever upgrade to an airbrush for smooth coats on vehicles, big monsters or whole armies, this is the range made for it. If you are happy with a brush for now, you can skip Air entirely and lose nothing.

A simple beginner workflow

Here is an easy recipe that works for almost any model. You can follow it exactly, or use it as a starting point and make it your own.

1

Undercoat. Spray or brush on a primer so the paint has something to grip. A dark undercoat suits metals and moody looks, a light one suits bright colours and Contrast paints.

2

Base. Paint each area with its main colour using thin, even coats. Take your time here, because a tidy base makes every later step easier.

3

Shade. Brush a Shade into the recesses, letting it run into the gaps. Wipe away any puddles on flat areas and let it dry.

4

Layer or dry highlight. Add a lighter Layer along the edges, or drybrush a Dry paint over raised detail to bring back the crisp highlights.

5

Finish with details. Add small touches like gems, eyes and trim, then seal the model if you like.

Where do Contrast and Technical fit?

Contrast paints can replace the Base and Shade steps on any area where you want a quick, good-looking result. Put them on over a light undercoat, then add Layer or Dry highlights afterwards. Technical paints come right at the end: rust, grime or blood go on once the main colours are finished.

Meet the types in pot form

Here is one example from each part of the range to give you a feel for the whole family. Tap any card to see the full paint page, or head to our Citadel Paints collection to browse every type.

Corvus Black (Base)

Corvus Black (Base)

A dark Base paint for solid, confident coverage on armour, boots and weapons.

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Stormhost Silver (Layer)

Stormhost Silver (Layer)

A bright metallic Layer paint for edge highlights over a darker metal base.

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Nuln Oil (Shade)

Nuln Oil (Shade)

The classic dark Shade that settles into recesses and gives metal and black real depth.

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Black Legion (Contrast)

Black Legion (Contrast)

A Contrast paint that delivers a rich dark finish in a single coat over a light undercoat.

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Sigmarite (Dry)

Sigmarite (Dry)

A Dry paint made for quick drybrushed highlights on raised metal detail.

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Typhus Corrosion (Technical)

Typhus Corrosion (Technical)

A Technical paint for grimy, corroded, battle-worn effects.

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Temple Guard Blue (Air)

Temple Guard Blue (Air)

An Air paint made for airbrushes, for smooth, even colour on larger surfaces.

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Contrast Medium (Technical)

Contrast Medium (Technical)

The medium for thinning Contrast paints so they flow more gently and stay smooth.

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Which type should a beginner try first?

If you are brand new, a great starter set of ideas is one undercoat spray, a few Base paints in your main colours, one or two Shades, and a small selection of Layer paints for highlights. If you want to see quick results, add a Contrast paint or two. Everything else can wait until you are hooked, and you will be, because this hobby is wonderfully easy to fall in love with.

Looking for tools to go with your paints? Our Citadel Tools collection has brushes and accessories to help.

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Quick answers (FAQ)

What is the difference between Base and Layer paints?

Base paints are thicker and cover well, so they make the solid foundation colour. Layer paints are thinner and go on top of the Base to brighten edges and add highlights.

What is a Shade paint used for?

A Shade is a runny paint that flows into recesses and creases to create natural shadows. It adds depth to a model in a single step.

How are Contrast paints different from Shades?

Contrast paints are applied over a light undercoat and give colour plus shading in one coat. Shades are used on top of an already painted Base colour just to add shadow.

What are Dry and Technical paints for?

Dry paints are built for drybrushing, which quickly highlights raised detail. Technical paints create special effects such as rust, grime, blood and texture, and include mediums for thinning other paints.

Do I need Air paints?

Only if you use an airbrush. Air paints are made for airbrushes, and everyone else can paint beautifully with a regular brush and the other types.

Is Citadel Colour changing its name?

Yes, Games Workshop is rebranding Citadel Colour as Warhammer Colour. The paints are the same and only the branding is changing.

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